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This group of shrubs - The Magnolias, Acers (Japanese Maples) and Witch Hazels (Hamamelis) all have the same pruning requirement. Virtually nothing should be done!
If any pruning is done, then it should be carried out during late winter or vey early spring - as the sap is rising. In the case of the Hamamelis - Witch Hazels - this will be immediately after flowering. This is by far the best time to carry out any thinning of growths, such as those that may have become damaged through wind rock, or by crossing each other and rubbing the bark.
Be aware that any such pruning you feel fit to do on magnolias, will cut out some of the flowering bud growth! nevertheless, if you have to prune, far better before than after flowering with the deciduous Magnolia shrubs.

If the steps are followed below for the Japanese Acer group, then it is possible to open up the centre of the shrub - which might be good if it is a large specimen. The resultant form can be attained over several years of light formative pruning.
Often after severe winters, there is a case for cutting out damaged shoots and branches on Japanese Maples. Sometimes this winter damage does not show through until leaf break time in late Spring. Simply cut the dead wood back to a pair of live sprouting bude - about 2cm - 1in above.
This group of shrubs rarely need anything other than the lightest pruning (a) to bring back the shrub into a more desired shape, and (b) to take out 'rogue' crossing and week shoots.
In this diagram, you will see some 'crossing' shoots and a few small twigs - which if allowed to grow - will spoil the shape of the shrub.
This diagram shows the proposed pruning cuts at the red marks - to sort out the few potential problems mentioned above. The aim should simply be to open up the centre of the shrub. This is more preferable for Acers, so that the attractive branch form can be seen, but not necessary for the Hamamelis or Magnolias.
The pruning has been done! 2 further small branches on the right hand side could be pruned to give an 'instantly better' shape, but I would wait to see what sprouts on the left and side to even things up a little!
The least done to this group the better!
If really necessary, then Magnolias can be reduced in size at this time of year, but far better to allow it to grow to it's proper maturity. Most of the foliage growth will be around the perimeter of the branches - so there will be plenty of room to under-plant attractive low growing shrubs or perennials.
For Evergreen Magnolias - such as Magnolia grandiflorum, mid spring is the better time for to take any action. If the evergreen magnolia is trained along or against a wall, then trim back immediately after flowering - and preferably to within 30cm - or 4 or 5 buds - on the main permanent framework.
The main reason why there is little pruning recommended, is simply because anything severe will spoil the natural shape to which this group of shrubs grow.