When to Prune Shrubs - Pruning Calendar for shrubs.
Buddleja hard pruned in spring - ready to
send a lot of new growth and large flowers.
The shrubs mentioned in this calendar for pruning do NOT HAVE TO BE
PRUNED in many instances. These are simply optimum times if you so wish.
For instance, some of the evergreens are best pruned back by mid summer
in order that they gain sufficient 'hardy;' growth before the onset of
the following winter..You will soon be aware of why 'when to prune
shrubs' is as important as 'how to prune shrubs'
Pruning is necessary for some shrubs - not
because they actually need it, but more because we
have either planted them in the wrong place, or they
are simply not conforming to what we think they
should look like.
There are many other shrubs that simply need pruning to do their best
for us - whether new lush foliage, stems or flowers. The downfall of
pruning in many cases - certainly as our mailbox suggests - is that many
shrubs are pruned at the wrong time.
This results in either cutting off
the flower buds for the season - hence no flowers for a year; cutting
off the stems in autumn which would normally give us a great display
through the winter; or even pruning some types of shrubs/trees at the
wrong time of year, which then allows fungal spores to enter!
When to prune your Shrubs - Calendar Of Pruning For Shrubs and Hardy Plants.
One of the problems of writing a Calendar of Shrub Pruning, is the
fact that every year brings seasons which are either earlier or later
than usual - particularly spring and autumn, and of course, being a
world wide website, there will be different hardiness zones in different
countries, together with different general climatic conditions which
will also affect the optimal timing of any pruning for some types of
shrubs. This can affect the time when you prune your shrubs. You will
have to gain knowledge about your own particular time zone to know this.
The basis of our calendar, is that of minimum average
temperature of approximately -7deg. This corresponds to most areas
within the UK. It is roughly equivalent to Group 8B on the USDA
Hardiness Zones Table. As with all things in life, times change. So do
temperatures - regardless of your feeling about global warming.
The calendar below will be added to.
January - February Pruning
February - March Pruning
- Hydrangea PG
(Paniculata Grandiflora) and arborescens - quite hard pruning.
- Sambucus foliage types, can be cut back hard to
induce good growth stems and foliage.
- Cornus alba and
stolonifera types - together with sanguinea can be cut
back hard to get plenty of stems for next winter spectacular.
March - April Pruning
- Evergreens General Pruning if needed. Some
flowering evergreens will need to be pruned at different times. As a
general rule, evergreens should not be pruned when dormant.
- Chimonanthus praecox - The Wintersweet. Right
after flowering - but minimal.
- Honeysuckle - the winter flowering bush types -
Lonicera fragrantissima etc.
- Caryopteris x clandonensis
should be hard pruned at this time
- Viburnum x bodnantense types - as soon as finished flowering.
Cut out 25% of the old stems to ground level each year to keep the
shrub looking tidy, and youthful.
April - May
- Hamamellis mollis and other Witch Hazels - but
only if you have to!
- Forsythia - All types right after flowering.
- Jasminum nudiflorum - the Yellow Winter
flowering type. Cut back hard if you wish.
- Kerria japonica - right after flowering, and
cut some of the branches down to near ground level. If you are
really brave you can cut the whole shrub down hard! It will reward
you with some great lush foliage - and flowers for next year of
- Pieris. Especially if there was frost damage to
the new foliage. Don't be afraid to cut back to regenerate - and get
some new coloured foliage.
- Chaenomeles - Quince - As soon as flowering
- Salix caprea and others that are grown for
their pussy willow catkins.
- Fatsia japonica - is best pruned in late April
- May once frosts are over. Winter damage cut out, and cut beck for
renewed foliage, and flower for the coming winter.
May - June
- Weigela - Unless still in flower. The
foliage types can be cut back hard - ie W florida nana and W foliis
- Photinia Red Robin for some extra foliage
colour, and especially now if you want flowers in the next year.
- Euonymus Evergreen types - Can be pruned now
through to end July for better foliage effect.
- Camellia - the Sasanqua types - early in
May/June - after all flowering finished.
- Camellia - Japanese types - C. japonica
- Daphne - Evergreen types such as Daphne bhuolua.
Only corrective pruning really.
- Forsythia should have been done early May, but
still ok now.
- Fothergilla - Only if you have to. Minimal
unless wanting to regenerate.
- Lilac - Syringa - Dear head or prune back as
soon as you can after flowering.
- Kalmia latifolia - probably in June, but right
after flowering has stopped.
- Spiraea - the varieties that have already
finished flowering in spring. NOT the summer flowering types
- Viburnum deciduous - spring or late winter
- Viburnum evergreen types - such as V. tinus and
June - July
Pruning at this time of year is normally confined to shrubs that
flower on growths that were produced in the previous year. Therefore by
pruning now, you are giving the plant time to produce new growth this
year, which will also bear the flower buds for next year. Leave it too
late, and there will be no time for the shrub to produce next year's
flower buds. For this group of shrubs - prune immediately after
However, there are also several evergreens that can be pruned at this
time - if they are simply being grown for foliage effect.
- Flowering Cherry and Almond Trees - Prunus
- Evergreen Azaleas - as soon as finished
flowering, but only if they need it for shape or size.
- Deciduous Azales will need pruning - dead
heading in July.
- Rhododendrons - best only to dead-head the old
flowers, then you will see the new shoots directly beneath the old
- Kolkwitzia - The Beauty Bush, right after
- Deutzia - All types right after flowering.
- Gardenia if you are lucky enough to live in an
area of the world where they grow outside.
- Hydrangea - Oak leaf type - Hydrangea
quercifolia -minimal, but will ensure good autumn - fall - foliage.
- Philadelphus - Mock Orange. All types right
- Osmanthus - after flowering best.
- Pyracantha - Firethorn can be spur-pruned, or
simply cut back to the old faded flowers. These will bring you the
berries this autumn - fall - so don't cut them off.
- Roses - The climbing types - after flowering
- Calycanthus - Carolina Allspice, or Sweet shrub
- Right after flowering
- Itea ilicifolia - unless still in flower
- Elaeagnus pungens maculata and limelight, can
be pruned back to 'refresh' the foliage if required, or quite hard
to re-juvenate the plant. No later than end of July.
- Corylus avellana Contorta, may be re-juvenate
by pruning back hard by end of June preferably. This will give some
new contorted growths and clean up the fi=oliage that tends to get
messy around now!
- Cotinus Royal Purple will benefit from cutting
back hard to force another flush of vibrant foliage.
- Holly - Ilex best to do any pruning for foliage
by end of June - very early July latest.
- Junipers - the low growing types. Last pruning
back time this month.
- Laurels such as Prunus Otto Luyken, can be cut
back now at latest.
- Photinia Red Robin
can still be cut back for new foliage effect.
- Pittosporum - all varieties. Prune as required.
- Yew - Taxus spps. Last time for pruning back
- Myrtus - Myrtle - Would have been better
earlier in the year, but can be pruned quite hard now.
July - August
- Itea ilicifolia. Maybe earlier if flowering is
- Leucothoe. The Rainbow type responds well to a
hard cut back (for foliage) the others just minimal.
- Osmanthus - if you missed out in late June.
August - September
September - October
October - November
November - December
December - January
By David Hughes -